Once upon a time, there was a Les Deux Café that was the epitome of louche living, in that fabulously tarnished Hollywood sort of way. Tucked away off the boulevard, we’d spend long nights there under the jasmine in the grand patio, supping on loup de mer and rosé, our rusty folding French patio chairs bumping up against those at adjacent tables, jampacked with the likes of Kim Gordon, Sofia Coppola and then-hubby Spike Jonze (yea, that was once upon a time), Vinnie Gallo, Phillip Noyce and Rick Owens, whose other half Michelle Lamy was the grand dame of this old house-turned-hideaway.
In the early naughts, Les Deux was a crumbling heaven in a town that had long been flattening out the scraps of tinsel, holding onto a heyday lost between the runaways and tourists.
Then the pearly gates were padlocked. Michelle and Rick fled to Paris. And Les Deux eventually reopened, as part of a chain and filled with the slaves of tabloids.
One regular of those old Les Deux nights is Audrey Bernstein. Together with Apple Via, the duo made Monday nights in L.A. legendary.

Audrey wants to take us all home again, and she’s found a new place and night to rekindle those fabulously lost evenings. She rolled out the welcome mat earlier this month at Cecconi’s in West Hollywood.

Every Tuesday night, Audrey is welcoming friends, some whom sidle up to the glamorous bar for cocktails made from freshly squeezed fruit and savory cicchetti, the small plates and charcuterie served here until 1 a.m. Or they crowd into the terrace, enclosed by jade trees and filled with comfy, teal leather seating, for dinner that is, thankfully, served until midnight.While the earlier crowd wasn’t our coupe of prosecco, the place is. Not a trace of its former life as the landmark Morton’s is visible, the floors have been swathed in marble, a Damien Hirst heart speckled with real butterflies hangs in a private dining area, and several chain-link Giogali chandeliers infuse the place with a sexy glow. Enzo Cecconi founded the London original in 1978, and the name was completely acquired by Nick Jones of Soho House in 2005. This WeHo edition opened in February, in time for the Jimmy Choo pre-Oscar fete.A party as that was, hopefully, with Audrey’s guidance, the place will attract a year-round scene that can live up to expectations.
We loved dining under the stars on the terrace, and much of our dinner was worth a second try. Oddly, the chef that night seemed to forget a few key elements such as a squeeze of lemon or a pinch of salt. But we could only hope this was an off-night, since it appeared the ingredients and most of the execution suggested so. They also need to get the music volume right. Last Tuesday, Audrey’s artist pal Andrew Neuhues created a fabulous playlist that was scarcely audible. Hopefully, they'll get the sound level just right tonight. The potential for the place is just too palatable.
Audrey tells us the bar will have prosecco on tap, soon, too. So that should be a kick.

This Thursday, she's also expanding her hosting role at Cecconi’s by rolling out The Breakfast Club, a morning of “scandalous gossip, inspirational ideas, delightful gifts and breakfast.”
Coffee and tea is on the host this inaugural week. The happening begins at the civilized hour of 9 a.m.

See you there!

Cecconi’s is at 8764 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood. Valet and street parking available. 310-432-2000.